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Heinrich Naked White 2024
Heinrich Winery believes great wines express a true sense of place—something best achieved when vines thrive within a biologically diverse environment where soil vitality and natural symbiosis are preserved. Their ultimate aspiration is to let nature speak through their wines, guided by ethical and qualitative principles that shape every decision.
Three cheers for the everyday wine! Entertaining, broken down to the essentials and seriously uncomplicated. An everyday wine functions in much the same fashion. While the Naked White initially comes along on tiptoe in the nose, it perches on the palate putting the whole foot into play... Its primary protagonists, Chardonnay & Pinot Blanc, lend it a creamy texture, while the supporting characters happily eliminate any resistance to drinking and throws some lemon zest into the glass. Unadulterated, straightforward & precise.
The Heinrich Naked White is a versatile wine that pairs well with light and fresh dishes like grilled vegetables, seafood, and goat cheese. It also complements a variety of other foods, including chicken, Asian cuisine, and vegetarian dishes such as roasted cauliflower or pumpkin and sage ravioli.
Heinrich Winery believes great wines express a true sense of place—something best achieved when vines thrive within a biologically diverse environment where soil vitality and natural symbiosis are preserved. Their ultimate aspiration is to let nature speak through their wines, guided by ethical and qualitative principles that shape every decision. Since converting to biodynamic viticulture in 2006, their goal has been to make the vineyards more resilient, vital, and diverse. Embracing minimal intervention, all wines ferment spontaneously, often spending weeks on the skins and aging unadulterated on their lees, primarily in used wooden barrels. Time—whether weeks or years—plays the central role in shaping their character, allowing each wine to develop balance and a distinctive aromatic profile. Through careful observation and minimal influence, they remain committed to crafting authentic, genuine wines that faithfully reflect their origin.
Viñátigo Listán Blanco de Canarias 2025
Juan Jesús, who is a 4th generation winemaker, founded Viñátigo in 1990 and has worked tirelessly since then identifying, recuperating the native grapes of the Canary Islands. The grape Listán Blanco de Canarias was brought to the Canary Islands in the 18th century by the Andalusian conquers. Viñátigo cultivates it in the high-lands that sit at 500 meters of altitude.
The vines are trained in ‘parrales’, a training method inherited by the Portuguese community that settled on the northern part of the island back in the 15th century. These vertical structures adapt to the hills and ravines created by the last eruptions of Teide volcano towards the north of the island. This wine is very fresh and has a vibrant acidity. On the nose, it has fragrant aromas of fennel, dried fruits and fig tree leaves; as well as a distinct mineral quality that is a result of the volcanic soils.
This crisp white calls for grilled fish, potatoes and 'mojo verde', a typical sauce from the Islands made of garlic, cilantro and olive oil.
Juan Jesús is a proud native of Tenerife and the fourth generation of growers. During the thirty years that he's overseen Bodegas Viñátigo, he has considerably increased its holdings, planting varieties that he and his team recuperated from near extinction.
Driven by passion and love for his homeland, Juan decided to revive and work to save the native grape varieties that were brought to the Canary Islands by the conquers back in the 15th century and that had survived on the islands for centuries. He is a hero of contemporary Canarian viticulture. The wealth of knowledge that his work has created has helped underpin the significant expansion of wine styles that are now available throughout the archipelago, and his wines have achieved a calibre of class that many doubted the Canaries would ever produce again. (The Epic Wines of the Canary Islands, written by Santo Bains).
From high altitude volcanic-soiled vineyards in the Canary Islands this is from the local listan grape, also known as palomino fina, related to the white grape grown in Jerez to make sherry. It is light to medium bodied, fresh and lively with trace minerality. Not tart acidity but enough to keep it in ballast. The fruit is pear, guava, lemon amid the reductive mineral notes, plus a distinct sourdough yeastiness on the nose that immediately recalled fino sherry. The length is excellent. Tasted December 2022.
Viñátigo Listán Blanco 2021 initially emits this unusually funky and exotic perfume of wet basalt or concrete mixed with washed manchego cheese rind but quickly comes together as one inviting scent. Preps the palate for wanting a taste to see what comes next and the clarity shines right away, of gemstones and the salty sweat of craggy wet stones. There is some orchard fruit but what matters most is the saline-mineral comport. It's like a compôte of imagination built on fruit and volcanics melted into a salad that spoons straight on down. Bloody delicious and well-made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted December 2022.
2021 marks another fine vintage for this reliably intriguing and interesting, complex wine from own-rooted listán blanco (aka palomino fino), quite ripe, showing pineapple and quince, baked apple and apple blossom flavours, less immediately flinty-reductive than the previous vintage and with more fruit. The palate is mid-weight and creamy, with balanced acids and very good length. Really delicious now, though should continue to gain in non-fruit complexity over the next 1-3 years, or hold into the mid-'20s. Tasted December 2022.
Cortonesi 'La Mannella' Brunello di Montalcino 2019
The Cortonesi family has been a cornerstone of the Montalcino region for decades. Established in the 1970s, their estate spans 138 acres in one of the area's most storied regions, with 19 acres dedicated to producing world-class Brunello. The family began commercially selling their wine in 1985, and today, third-generation winemaker Tommaso Cortonesi continues the tradition. Tommaso combines his long-standing family traditions with modern technologies to craft some of the finest expressions of Tuscan Sangiovese.
'La Mannella' is crafted exclusively from grapes harvested in the southeast, where the soil is a mix of clay and sandstone. The wine is aged in 30-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels, which allow for extended aging without imparting excessive aromas to better preserve the primary characteristics of the grapes and the uniqueness of each vintage. 2019 reveals fragrantly spiced dark-berried fruits with notes of seared herbs and tobacco, underscored by vibrant acidity and freshness.
We recommend to pair this Brunello with bold meals: oxtail, a beautiful steak, rich stews or game paired with mushroom sauces. The spicy aromas of the wine will enhance the flavours of the food.
“I’m a lucky man who has been given the opportunity to realize my dream and continue my family’s efforts making wine in the land where I was born.” – Tommaso Cortonesi
Tommaso is third-generation winemaker at Cortonesi that owns some of the most prized vineyards in the north and south-east of Montalcino. Favourable geography, rocky soils, and ingenious winemaking all come together to create some of the region's deepest and most elegant Brunello wines.
The Cortonesi family has been making wine since the 1970s. At first, wines were made to be enjoyed by family, friends and neighbours, but then in 1985, Cortonesi had gained enough traction within their community that they began to offer their wines commercially. Today, Cortonesi remains a family business that continues to work according to tradition, while employing modern technologies to the enhance the quality of their production.
Lovers of Sangiovese must experience “La Mannella”, a collection of wines exclusively sourced from Cortonesi's private vine land. This farm covers 56 hectares, eight of which are devoted to the production of some of the world's most coveted and age-worthy Brunello di Montalcino.
From the historic farm, the product of an excellent work between the countryside and the cellar, an emblematic Brunello: raspberry on the nose, touches of nutmeg, then caper fruit and ginger. Slightly salty on the palate, finish with notes of raspberry and sweet spices. Great length.
Tomasso Cortonesi's quip is messaged through the mouth of Francesco Ripaccioli: "When you have no space you have money. So you build a cellar and then you have space - but you have no money." Appropriate irony from a northwestern Montalcinese winemaker whose La Mannella history has been one of Tetris - but that will soon change. The quality of his wines from this property arrive at peak form with an outstanding 2019 and going forward new cellar space will help to raise the bar. A bar set by these two Brunello boys who bottle in May because "that's when the Annata are ready." Also allows a rest period for six months in bottle ahead of Benvenuto Brunello and eight before a January release. Tomasso's '19 is fragrant but the kind at dusk on a cool November day in Montalcino, just like an hour ago. The most natural sweetness in a La Mannella sangiovese that has ever been noted and that makes for a Brunello you can find early gratification, but deeper down is the understanding concerning a sangiovese with fortified structure. Purely, expressly La Mannella, fresh and of a Brunello with great purpose. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023.
A creamy and ripe, lightly lactic and wood-influenced Brunello in the Cortonesi house style, rarely tight and angular, often approachable and velvety, like this example. It's a sleek and sophisticated example in a forward and enjoyable style - should please widely over the mid term - 2026-2036. Tasted November 2023.
Château du Moulin Noir Lussac - Saint Emilion 2014
Softly-textured wine from an estate in Lussac-Saint-Emilion. Moulin Noir consists of seven hectares of vineyards on a good clay and limestone site. The wine is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc and is aged 12 months in oak.
This notably complex right bank blend from a satellite appellation of Saint-Emilion offers appealing savoury notes along with a mineral, iron component and liquorice spice. The oak treatment is wonderfully integrated with wood spice elevating the bright red fruit. Harmoniously matured, graceful and very elegant. The staying power of the finish is impressive. Drinking very well now.
The high content of Merlot in this wines makes it perfect with spicy Asian dishes like Korean hotspots or Chinese food. It also pairs nicely with roasted lamb or duck terrines and with fatty cheeses like Comté.
This beautiful right-bank Bordeaux estate consistently produces high-value, elegant and classic Merlot dominant wines and is considered one of the most famous Château of this appellation. Located in Montagne-Saint-Emilion, Château Moulin Noir consists of seven hectares of vineyards on clay and limestone soils.
This château owes its name to a family feuddating back to the Middle Ages. Two brothers were arguing about their father’s legacy with the youngest brother being incredibly jealous that everything went to the elder. He was so jealous that he burnt the château to the ground - Moulin Noir translates to “blackened Mill”.
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