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Fresne-Ducret is rich in family history and has been rooted in the premier cru village of Villedommange since the mid 1800s. Originally growing grapes for the big champagne houses, it wasn’t until the end of the second world war that the family decided to make their own wine. The tradition carries on today with Pierre Fresne and his wife Daniella (an Oakville ex-pat). Their philosophy is to produce wines that best exemplify the terroir of Villedommange, and they do this with sustainability in mind.
In 2014, Pierre Fresne embarked on a new adventure by creating a limited series of champagnes based on his desire for experimentation. Since then, he has produced one or two of these wines each year. Each are unique, according to his wishes and the profile of the vintage. This unique collection is called Arquémie, the term for alchemy in the Middle Ages. In 2018 Pierre began converting the vineyards to organic viticulture, and 2021 will be their first organic certified vintage.
This has a very intriguing, generous nose of macaroon (coconut), straw, dried apple, toast and almond/hazelnut. Also a lovely sense of sweet nut fudge. It is medium bodied with fulsome flavour, riveting acidity and all kinds of Champagne minerality. Great focus and length here. Wow! Tasted October 2020
Fresne Ducret's latest release of this premier cru "Chemin du Chemin champagne is a characteristically smoky and savoury, toasty and biscuity, mature champagne in the English style, balanced and savoury. I really like the developed, mature profile here, the great length. This is very good champagne ready to go. Tasted October 2020.
When richness, yeasty and warm toasted brioche get together in Champagne the effect is comforting and potentially hypnotizing. From the Premier Cru village of Villedommange dating back to the mid 1800s, the pedigree is noted and the 48 months of lees aging a coup for creating both a creamy and a revitalizing Champagne. There is an oxidative aspect here and it's effectualness is one that imagines exotic spice cupboards, masala mixes and gingery tisanes. Quite the exotic bubble, lightly frothy, elegantly styled, complex and fine. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted October 2020.
This Champagne shows some fine maturity. A blend based on the 2014 vintage, it now has toastiness while keeping intense freshness. Acidity and touches of minerality come through the spiciness. Drink now.
The Muré family has been winegrowers in the region of Rouffach since 1650. In 1935, Alfred Muré, René’s grandfather, bought 32 acres of family-monopole vineyard name Clos St. Landelin, an area that has been described as the best of Alsace Grand Cru since the 7th Century.
Today, René Muré, the 11th generation of the family, along with his children, Véronique and Thomas, are responsible for running their exceptional Grand Cru vineyard and neighbouring terroirs using biodynamic methods. Until this day, they persist in hand-picking every single grape, and focus on crafting wines that preserve the family’s credo. The resulting wines are some of Alsace's finest – powerful, elegant, and age-worthy.
Flavourful, ripe, multi-layered, saline and saliva inducing sylvaner, a far cry from the shrill and tart wines of just a couple of decades ago - climate warming is clearly felt here, though admittedly in this rare case it's not a bad thing. It stays true to the apple-inflected varietal sylvaner style, if definitively softer, but there's an ease and comfort on offer that I find attractive. Lots of pleasure here in a ready-to-enjoy bottling. Bonus: certified organic/biodynamic. Chill and go. Tasted January 2026.
This is a bright, polished and balanced example of sylvaner, an Alsatian variety I have always liked for its textural generosity. It can get oily but this example is nicely dry, with brisk, lively acidity. Aromas and flavours are vaguely tropical - banana leaf, fresh fig and honey. More lemony citrus emerges on the finish. The length is excellent. Tasted January 2026
This organical and biodynamic sylvaner is the very picture of balance, demonstrating an easy elegance. It is delicately honeyed, with notes of ripe apples, peaches and apricots, and dried orange peel. The palate is an engaging juxtaposition of lushness and freshness - I really love the concentration of flavours here and the intense acidity that lifts the rounded palate. I also find the bitter botanical-tonic finish compelling. Tasted January 2026.
Península Vinicultores was founded by two Masters of Wine: Andreas Kubach MW, leads production and Sam Harrop MW directs viticulture. Andreas, raised in Brazil and Spain by German parents, and Sam, a native New Zealander, bring a new-wave, international perspective to the Spanish wine landscape. Andreas believes that in the past century, and notably post-industrialization, Spanish producers have prioritized wines of style, focusing on winemaking and aging, rather than wines of place. This creates what he calls a “ceiling of interest” for terroir. Inspired to change this narrative, he is focusing on small, old-vine plots all over Spain that were either formerly abandoned or are at risk of being ripped out for to plant more lucrative cash crops. The wines also champion local, indigenous varieties traditional to their respective regions and best express site.
The Château Lamartine stands at the extremely west side of the Cahors Appellation, on the oldest of Lot Valley’s terraces. The terroir of the 37 hectares faces South on clay and limestone soils which guarantees a perfect maturity to the Malbec.The 2018 “Tradition” bottling represented Cahors with good distinction and from first nose this follow-up ’19 takes that excellence one step further. Not that it gives anything away for free because there is some reserve here but the wine opens with air and agitation to reveal classicism in every respect. The fruit is mature and slow developed, ever so slightly charred and surely on a low trajectory of incrementally developing complexity. Cautious now and yet so close to drinking as well it it’s ever going to be. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2023.
Open and fragrant, maturing nicely at this stage, Lamartine's classic Cahors (90% malbec with 10% merlot), is a lovely and succulent wine, well-proportioned and fresh, with lively acids and a real limestone twang. Wood is fully in the background, an accessory to complexity, while tannins are ripe, fine and silky and length is exceptional in the price category. Classy, well made wine, authentic, and surely better than most Bordeaux for the money. Drink or hold another 4-6 years. Tasted March 2023.
