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Mas Carlot is situated in the south of the Rhône Valley, extending across 76 hectares of pebbly land southeast of Nîmes. Originally a 17th century farm, this beautiful estate was resurrected in the 1960's by the Blanc family—it is currently run Cyril Mares of the neighbouring and equally reputable property, Mas Bressades.
The appellation of Costières de Nîmes used to be considered part of eastern Languedoc but the climate, soil, topography and wine are far closer to those just over the river in the Southern Côtes du Rhône. It is now a region very much on the up and is widely recognized as a great source of excellent value wine.
Mas Carlot's 2021 Costieres de Nimes Rose Generations is a terrific blend of 55% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Offering up generous aromas of strawberry, watermelon and lime, it's medium-bodied, plump and expansive on the palate. Made in a traditional style, with more color and extraction than the skinnier, more citrusy Provence wannabes, this is a lovely wine, with touches of silk and spice on the finish, not just citrus.
Conti Riccati is located in the rolling hills outside of Castelfranco, Veneto; in the province of Treviso. Their vineyards extend along 20 hectares inside a bigger property that has belonged to the Riccati family since the 14th century.Very clean aromas of lemons, pears and fragrant, marsiglia-tinged minerals. Creamy palate with balanced bubbles and flavors and a hint of fresh cream in the aftertaste. Nicely done. Drink now.
Réva is a winery based in Monforte D’Alba, within the Langhe area, in Piedmont, west northern Italy. Its aim is to bring the most brilliant young people of the area together, entrusting them with the task of expressing themselves in the most creative and professional way possible. This is Réva’s Wave, a dynamic team that represents the new Langhe generation, in constant communication with tradition, without the fear of reinterpreting it.
Today the vineyard sites which spread over 4 villages, Monforte D’Alba, Serralunga D’Alba, Novello and Barolo are all managed directly with the entire agronomic work done manually. Strong sustainable vineyards conduction, certified organic, they believe that their biggest challenge is not inventing anything but just define and express the beauty of the land where they live.
Behind every glass of wine there is an expression, expression of terroir, varietal, the varietal is for them everything, indigenous, they speak of the land and, last but not least, passion for what they do. Simply as that.
This to me is a classic Barolo vintage captured with utmost care and respect by Réva. The 2018 Baroli are not likely going to amalgamate as the most obviously decadent or structured nebbioli but they can be timely reflections into the appellation. This is what the team at Réva has looked at, considered and coaxed from a wine that represents and by that I mean stands as a cross-sectional cuvée for their important set of vineyards. The 2016 Barolo is a great wine though its austerity means it’s still not functionally available and will serve a select few when it gets to the intended destination. In 2018 nebbiolo stands out bright, aromatic and clear, seasoned by wood, earth and herbs, linear, direct and transparent. The purity and functionality serve the people and does so with heart open wide, worn on a gifted, but never gilded sleeve. This is not a precious wine but do embrace the gift. Drink 2023-2031. Tasted May 2022.
Château de Parnay is the flagship of the AOC Saumur Champigny. The property is located along the Loire river, classified as UNESCO World Heritage, on the most reputable clay and limestone terroirs of the appellation. The historic property was taken over by Mathias Levron & Régis Vincenot in 2006 with the aim of restoring the nobility of this special place.
Drawing their strength from the authenticity of their values, they now cultivate 50 hectares of vines with the aim of producing exceptional wines in a way that respects the environment. They have been certified organic since 2013 and are about to be certified biodynamic too.
The Clos of Chemin des Murs is the jewel of the property! Coming from the imagination of it's orginal owner, Antoine Cristal, this Clos was built, planted and cultivated according to an unprecedented technique. On this half hectare of Chenin Blanc, each vine was planted on the north face of a stone wall. Through a hole in the stone the vine crosses through the wall and allowing the grapes to grow facing the southern sunshine. The vine is said to have its 'foot in the cool and belly in the sun'.
This is from a leading Saumur producer of Loire chenin blanc with vines planted in calcerous clay soils near the Loire River outside of classical town. It is both rich and delicate, a juxtaposition I find in some of the world's best whites. It is not however an intense, flashy, acid and mineral driven chenin. Fermentation in neutral barrels has created a pale gold hue and softened the nose to gentle honeyed, spicy state along with ripe pear/apricot jam fruit. It is medium-full bodied, smooth and dry, almost creamy, with the grape's acidity and minerality arriving more on the finish. The complexity and length are excellent, with a touch of wood spice and bitterness as well. Tasted August 2022
2019: This leads with a terrific nose very much in the varietal/regional idiom, honeyed, floral, apple and lemon zest-scented, complex and exotic, not to mention stony. The palate displays a similar level of poise and composure, cool, transparent yet with a heavy freight of flavour , and terrific length. This is really quite extraordinary wine, delicious now, but surely capable of a decade or so in the cellar. Top notch. Tasted March 2019.
2019: The rare and elusive 100 per cent chenin blanc from Samur makes full use of clay-calcaire-tuffeau soils for this dry and piqued white wine. So crunchy and expressive with an expansive character that fills the mouth by making contact withy every nerve and pour. Benchmark and controlled explosive example, rare or otherwise. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted March 2020.
2019: It is rare to come across fine Saumur chenin, a central Loire Valley appellation overshadowed by Vouvray. This is mid-weight, dry and quite firm classic with a fairly generous nose of pear, spice, vague fresh herbs and wet stone. It becomes quite dry and somewhat grapefruity bitter on the finish, trailing solid minerality as well. Very good to excellent length. Tasted March 2020.
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