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Out of a Sicilian family heritage that traces back to the 17th century, the Tornatore’s Mount Etna wine ventures began in 1865. Today the family’s operations are headed by Giuseppe Tornatore, a businessman whose expertise led to the acquisition of some of the region’s finest north-facing vineyards in the early 2000’s. That heritage and the Tornatore’s profound respect and understanding of the land is showcased in wines that capture the essence of Etna, deftly balancing concentrated flavors, complexity, freshness and refinement.
The company lies in the northern side of Mount Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe. The soils have volcanic origin and were created through the disintegration of lava, ash and stones from previous volcanic eruptions. The climate on the northern side of the Etna is characterized by mild temperatures, and more rain fall reflecting the influence of the Volcano. The combination of soil, climate and the skill of the winemakers, have made the northern slope of Etna an ideal area for the production of high-quality wines. “Our vineyards and our winery are only a few kilometers from our family home. Our entire family is rooted there. We have the greatest respect for this region, and we believe we have a responsibility to be stewards of Etna and to reflect its distinct character in our wines.” - Giuseppe Tornatore
Flavourful, ripe, multi-layered, saline and saliva inducing sylvaner, a far cry from the shrill and tart wines of just a couple of decades ago - climate warming is clearly felt here, though admittedly in this rare case it's not a bad thing. It stays true to the apple-inflected varietal sylvaner style, if definitively softer, but there's an ease and comfort on offer that I find attractive. Lots of pleasure here in a ready-to-enjoy bottling. Bonus: certified organic/biodynamic. Chill and go. Tasted January 2026.
This is a bright, polished and balanced example of sylvaner, an Alsatian variety I have always liked for its textural generosity. It can get oily but this example is nicely dry, with brisk, lively acidity. Aromas and flavours are vaguely tropical - banana leaf, fresh fig and honey. More lemony citrus emerges on the finish. The length is excellent. Tasted January 2026
This organical and biodynamic sylvaner is the very picture of balance, demonstrating an easy elegance. It is delicately honeyed, with notes of ripe apples, peaches and apricots, and dried orange peel. The palate is an engaging juxtaposition of lushness and freshness - I really love the concentration of flavours here and the intense acidity that lifts the rounded palate. I also find the bitter botanical-tonic finish compelling. Tasted January 2026.
Bideona owns or manages over 300 parcels of extraordinary vines in villages throughout the Rioja Alavesa, the coolest, smallest and most Atlantic sub-zone of Spain’s most famous wine region.
The vineyards of the Rioja Alavesa are defined by parcels of old bush vines planted on terraces or hillside slopes with a high percentage of limestone. Located in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria, Bideona’s vines have an average age of 50 years and many were planted in the 1920s, 30s and 40s, before high-yielding clones became available.
Bideona puts the focus firmly on terroir by making each wine in its Vino de Pueblo range as a field blend of Tempranillo and other native varieties from plots in an individual village. Each is named with an acronym – L3Z4 for Leza, L4GD4 for Laguardia, S4MG0 for Samaniego and V1BN4 for Villabuena – owing to DOCa Rioja regulations that only allow village names to be marked if both the winery and the vineyard are in the same location.
“Bideona’s reason for existence is to make wines that show the personality of the Rioja Alavesa and its historic wine villages” states company co-founder and director, Andreas Kubach MW. “We have access to a wealth of diverse plant material in our parcels of old vines, which we believe contributes to the complexity of the wines as well as the differences between villages.”
With its open, unassuming, and unguarded personality, this wine is a lovely entry-point into Biedeona's portfolio. I love the bright fruit flavours, red and dark, resinous herbs, wildflowers, and hints of pepper depicted here. The palate is medium bodied, with supple acidity and balanced, firming tannins. An herbal note lingers on the finish, closing off the delightfully expressive palate. I would enjoy this modern Rioja now or over the next couple of years in order to benefit from its youthful charm. Tasted January 2026.
Crisp with delicate floral aromatics, this wine shows the cool, higher-elevation “Alavesa” character, but with greater weight at 14% alcohol. Notes of violet, cherry, raspberry leaf, and pink peppercorn add charm. Juicy, youthful, and effortlessly stylish, both in the glass and in its packaging. Intriguing, satisfying - a not-so-guilty pleasure. Tasted January 2026.
"Pellehaut" gets its name from the Roman or medieval word pila (meaning any kind of solid, pillar-like construction). The presence two kilometres away of mosaics decorated with vines at the Gallo-Roman site of Séviac bears witness to the fact that vines were already grown at Pellehaut in Roman times.
Pellehaut follows a traditional, low-intervention approach to winemaking, using native yeasts from its own vineyards and avoiding thermovinification in favor of cooler fermentation to preserve varietal aromas. After fermentation, the wines are either kept cool in stainless steel tanks or aged for up to two years in fine-grain oak barrels from the Allier forests. Though not part of a prestigious appellation, the estate takes pride in its diverse range of 16 wines, aiming to offer authentic expressions of Gascogne that inspire curiosity and pleasantly surprise wine enthusiasts.
