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Gilvesy Bohem Balatoni Cuvée 2024
Gilvesy winery is located in the outskirts of Lake Balaton, near an ancient dormant volcano, in Hungary. Hungarian expat Robert Gilvesy moved back to his homeland from Canada to start this exciting project involving native grape varieties and volcanic soils.
This blend is light and fresh. On the nose, it's all about hints of mint, lemon and fresh cucumber, while on the palate it's zesty, with notes of green apple and citrus fruit.
It's delicious when paired with summer meals: fresh salads dressed with dried fruits such as cranberries and walnuts, grilled fish with potatoes and zesty ceviches.
Hungarian expat Róbert Gilvesy moved back to his homeland from Canada, and began building the Gilvesy winemaking empire on the former Esterházy estate on Szent György Hill. Thanks to years of hard work, the Hegymagas-based facility now includes a modern building complex and about 13 hectares of vineyards, in addition to being the home of the family. The area is shaped by 6 million years old volcanoes, where indigenous and international varieties grow organically.
Robert’s absolute admiration for nature and the terroir translates into an immense respect for the environment. By farming using organic practices, the soils and the vines stay healthy. In the winery, by letting nature take its course without controlling the processes, and using local resources, such as Hungarian oak barrels, Gilvesy promotes and protects the Balaton region.
Robert Gilvesy’s Bohém blend no longer uses pinot gris (as mentioned in March) and tasting it four months later while looking out at Lake Balaton only romances the flavours and exults the wine. How could it not? The appellative excellence speaks to all the winemakers in the area and says it’s time. Time to join the party and make a white blend that represents estate. Last tasted July 2023.
The blend in 2021 is olaszrizling (a.k.a. welschriesling), riesling and sauvignon blanc with pinot gris no longer involved. No doubt a botanical aspect ups the complexity game away and beyond the simple norms of white blends marked by citrus and stone fruit. They are in the mix but the herbal tonic and fine bitters elevate the cuvée to speak rightly and spritely for Balaton, the Szent György Hill and Robert Gilvesy’s oeuvre. This wine is an institution now and deserves plenty of attention. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2023.
Situated near an ancient dormant volcano, Gilvesy grows native grape varieties organically and sustainably in volcanic soils. This blend of olaszrizling, pinot gris, riesling, and sauvignon blanc is subtly reductive and mineral, with notes of freshly cut-grass, juicy grapefruits and lemons, peaches, and crunchy pears. It feels fleshy and rounded, but refreshing on the palate, with a long, pleasantly grippy finish. I like the layers of flavours here and the succulent texture. This wine is ready to drink and vegan-friendly. Tasted March 2023.
Gilvesy's 2021 Balatoni cuvee is the customary blend of welschriesling, riesling and sauvignon blanc, crafted in an appealingly reductive, grapefruit pith and peel-inflected style, tightly wound and bone dry, mineral and fresh. I love the saltiness on the palate and the succulent acids that draw additional sips. Crunchy, fresh, lively, drinking now or hold short term. Tasted March 2023.
Tornatore Etna Rosato DOC 2024
A rising star in the Etna region, Tornatore is becoming one of the region's biggest and most respected wineries. Their vineyards are located at an altitude of 1,000 meters above sea level on the north side of this active volcano.
This is a shining, deeper-hued rose of nerello mascalese, from Castiglione di Sicilia, on Etna's northern slopes. With just a few hours of skin time giving a glowing crimson, this was fermented and aged for a short stint in stainless to preserve the fresh fruit.
Juicy wild raspberry, red berries, wild orange, lemon peel livens the medium-bodied, saline palate. Ample Etna minerality and freshness give a vibrancy to the palate, finishing long and salty.
Out of a Sicilian family heritage that traces back to the 17th century, the Tornatore’s Mount Etna wine ventures began in 1865. Today the family’s operations are headed by Giuseppe Tornatore, a businessman whose expertise led to the acquisition of some of the region’s finest north-facing vineyards in the early 2000’s. That heritage and the Tornatore’s profound respect and understanding of the land is showcased in wines that capture the essence of Etna, deftly balancing concentrated flavors, complexity, freshness and refinement.
The company lies in the northern side of Mount Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe. The soils have volcanic origin and were created through the disintegration of lava, ash and stones from previous volcanic eruptions. The climate on the northern side of the Etna is characterized by mild temperatures, and more rain fall reflecting the influence of the Volcano. The combination of soil, climate and the skill of the winemakers, have made the northern slope of Etna an ideal area for the production of high-quality wines. “Our vineyards and our winery are only a few kilometers from our family home. Our entire family is rooted there. We have the greatest respect for this region, and we believe we have a responsibility to be stewards of Etna and to reflect its distinct character in our wines.” - Giuseppe Tornatore
This nerello mascalese Rosato could never be accused of acting out a lean and pale Provençal play but at first look could be imagined as another French style, that being Tavel. Candy apple or Bing cherry hued and clearly destined to live a life of fleshy, pulpy and gloriously textured fruit. Direct pressing and no maceration brings about all the red fruits imaginable, including something akin to northerly Italian Corbezzolo fruit, here in flavours like a cross between a strawberry and a watermelon. Delectable stuff with streaks of basaltic salinity and botanical herbs. Wild ones, like fennel, ferula and floral ginestra. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted June 2023.
Château Le Grand Retour Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC 2022
Domaine André Aubert, has been formed over decades and generations by one very passionate wine family and today comprises of more than 280 hectares spread from north to south of the prestigious Southern Rhone Valley on the appellations Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône villages, Visan, and Grignan-les-Adhémar. The Château Le Grand Retour property was purchased in 1999.
Château le Grand Retour is situated in the Plan de Dieu AOC. This geographical area is overflowing with very important pebbles left behind by the Rhône River from millennia ago. As the Aubert family says, this vineyard allows the vines to 'drink the sun and live on stones.'
A sumptuous blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with rich fruit aromas of black cherry and raspberry. Notes of licorice and spice dominate the full-bodied palate and lead to a well-balanced and complex finish. This wine punches above it's weight in every class!
A great pairing with grilled lamb, stuffed eggplant, kebabs or köfte.
At the very heart of the Rhône Valley, at the northerly tip of the Southern Rhône, lie the vineyards of Grignan-Les-Adhémar. The chances are you haven’t heard the name before, few people have, but the wines are worth seeking out. It’s not a new wine region – vines have been planted here since around 500BC but it is a new name (formerly known as Côteaux-du-Tricastin). Domaine André Aubert, has been formed over decades and today comprises of more than 280 hectares spread from north to south of the prestigious Southern Rhone Valley on the appellations Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône villages, Visan, and Grignan-les-Adhémar.
A medium-bodied red with blackberries, currants, herbs and baking spices on the nose. Fine tannins with a juicy core of berries and peppercorns on the palate and a flavourful finish. Grenache, syrah and mourvedre. Drink now.
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