Medium Bodied

Press Reviews

Wine Align

93 points - Megha Jandhyala

This is a concentrated, complex, gracefully balanced cabernet franc. Notes of ripe red plums, blackberries, dark cherries, tobacco, dried leaves, and violets are interwoven here to form an elegant, engaging, and varietally representative flavour profile. The palate is densely flavoured but lithe, with fine-grained tannins and refreshing acids. The finish is long, layered, and captivating. Though it can be enjoyed now, I would cellar this for 2-3 years. Tasted January 2024.

93 points - David Lawrason

This is a serious cab franc indeed - not so much in terms of weight and power, but in its complexity, poise and length. It’s a deeply coloured for franc. The nose shows fine, ripe raspberry, perfectly pitched by fresh herbs, tobacco and violet. It is loosely structured mid-palate, and a touch warm, with slightly green tannin. The length is excellent. I would age it a year or three. Tasted January 2024

92 points - John Szabo, MS

Silky and refined, elegant but dense, this Saumur Champigny (cabernet franc) is a substantial and serious wine, with a high degree of textbook regional character, complete with a touch of green-herbal, varietal flavour. Tannins are fine and dusty, acids gently salty, and length good to very good. I'd suggest another year or two in the cellar to further refine the texture and develop complexity - potential I think is high. Tasted January 2024.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

93 points - John Szabo

2018 vintage review: Stéphane Riffault's 13.5 ha estate includes 3ha planted to pinot noir, of which La Noue represents 2.5 hectares across seven adjoining parcels with vines ranging from 8 to 56 years old, planted on both marls and Kimmeridgian limestones. Vineyard care is rigorous in the extreme (also certified organic), and the effort shows through in the final product, made in minimalist fashion. The 2018 is very much on the riper and fleshier end of the Sancerre Rouge spectrum, brimming with succulent red and black cherry (griottes), yet cool and classy, nicely composed, with fully integrated wood nuances. The palate is all class, vibrant yet fleshy, fresh yet generous, with a fine twang of limestone salinity and a tannin-acid complex that yields fine silk, more spun than woven. The wine gains succulence and energy with aeration, so be sure to serve in large-bowled pinot glasses or gently decant before serving, with a light chill for best effect. It should also hold comfortably in the cellar for another 3-5 years. Tasted May 2021.

Robert Parker

90+ points

2018 vintage review: From 30- to 58-year-old vines on terres blanches and marl soils, Stéphane Riffault's 2018 Sancerre La Noue was cold-macerated and fermented with whole clusters for a total of four weeks. It offers an aromatic, fruity, elegant and charming bouquet of red cherries, raspberries and redcurrant intertwined with stony notes. Concentrated, round and mellow on he palate, this is an elegant, already accessible and maybe too charming (?) Pinot with ripe black berry and licorice aromas on the aftertaste. It was aged for a total of 16 months in 228- to 600-liter oak casks prior the bottling in February. Tasted right after the bottling in February 2021.

I didn't taste wines from Stéphane Riffault for a long while, although I had them in very best memories. The 2016s and 2017s I tasted recently (far too late for potential buyers yet early enough for collectors who cellar them) are exciting. The 2017 Rosé is vinous and elegant, and among the whites, the clear, precise and linear 2016 Les Desmalets and the complex, structured 2016 Les Chailloux are outstanding. Shortly before the deadline for this report, I received the younger vintages—2018 and the fascinatingly vibrant and energetic 2019. These younger vintages include several new highlights, namely the single-parcel wines 468 and 538, which, tasted as barrel samples, are among the finest and most expressive Sancerres I have tasted in many years. The 2019 Les Chailloux is another highlight once again, as is the 2020 Rosé, which is more "a masquerade of a red wine," as Riffault's US importer, Jon-David Headrick, expresses it perfectly. All in all, the Domaine Claude Riffault has become one of my personal favorites of the AOP, and Stéphane's style seems to be moving toward more textured wines, a result of the trend to use more oak. Stéphane's brother is winemaker at the Domaine Étienne Sauzet in Puligny-Montrachet, and they might have an intense exchange about viticultural and winemaking techniques. I remember having tasted many wines grown predominantly or entirely in stainless steel years ago, and I also remember the transition to concrete vats and small barrels; these remain, but larger wooden casks are also in use today. For example, the generic white Sancerre is aged in both 500- and 600-liter wood containers; the Sancerres Les Boucauds is aged in a combination of pièces bourguignonnes (228 liters), 350-, 400- and 500-liter wood containers as well as 600-liter demi-muids. Les Chasseignes ages in both 350-liter barrels and a 20-hectolitre foudre that, in turn, is the cask for the fantastic Sancerres Les Denisottes and Les Chailloux. The Monoparcelles 469 and 538 are vinified in 350-liter barrels before the élevage of eight months takes place in a 20-hectoliter foudre and for another month in stainless steel tanks before bottling. The red Sancerre La Noue is aged in a combination of 228-, 250- and 600-liter oak vats, whereas the Sancerre Rosé is entirely aged in a single 228-liter pièce bourguignonne. 

With his rosé, Stéphane Riffault is looking to break the stereotype image of rosé and to produce a great, gastronomic vin de rosé, which he describes as "serious" and makes it "like a clear red." He accepts a loss of freshness in favor of complexity by aging it like a red Pinot Noir. In the end, this makes sense and adds another serious and vinous wine to a remarkable series of ambitious, terroir-driven Sancerres that are far more than just fresh and easy. I even had the impression the rosé is potent enough to be aged even longer on its lees, and Stéphane admits that he’s still unsure about this and that there is a possibility that he might age it longer than expected, but he’s afraid that what he would gain by aging it longer would be offset with an even further decrease in freshness. He added that bottling in March will give him a "happy medium," but this is yet to be seen. 

In an email conversation with Jon-David Headrick, who detected the Domaine Claude Riffault many years ago, he told me that Stéphane is not actively trying to make "wines that are counter to his appellation." Instead, "he’s trying to push the boundaries as to what can be made in the appellation. For so long, Sancerre has been known as an appellation that produced simple, fresh wines, and he wants it to be known as one of the great terroirs of France, having the ability to produce 'great white wines of stature and complexity.'" As such, Stéphane has been systematically tasting and speaking with great growers in Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace and Loire regions like Savennières to help him refine his style. "His primary references are in Burgundy where he has taken a lot of cues," reports Headrick. However, he is quick to point out that "Stéphane is not trying to make a Burgundy wine in Sancerre and dislikes this terminology. He is, however, taking the best of the ideas that great domaines in Burgundy have to teach him and adapting those to Sauvignon Blanc, his appellation and his parcels. " 

One of the ways Riffault thinks he can produce great, gastronomic whites is to concentrate on extended lees aging. In fact, the "sur-lie" aging is much longer than it was before since "he believes that aging on the lees, and more lees, in wooden containers is one of the ways to achieve this." 

One could fear the power, richness and density of the 2019 vintage could have made the new wines from Stéphane Riffault too big, but in fact, he has mastered the challenge incredibly well and kept as much freshness as possible in his full-bodied, structured and sustainable wines while practicing this extended aging. In any case, you should use a big Burgundy glass for all of his wines, particularly for the 2019s—and let them breath enough air. I have the series over a week, and even after seven days, they deeply impressed me.

Press Reviews

Robert Parker

92 points

The very young red 2021 Bozeto de Exopto mixes Tempranillo from Ábalos and Mediterranean Garnacha from Alfaro (with 10% Graciano), and it seems very balanced, with good ripeness (14.5%), showing the Garnacha and the more austere Graciano with nice fruit and freshness. It's serious and has complexity and depth beyond its price point. It matured in a combination of concrete and oak containers for some six months. Excellent value in one of the finest vintages for this wine. 70,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2022.

Wine Align

91 points - John Szabo

A blend of garnacha, tempranillo and graciano grown at around 500m in the Sierra de Cantabria, this is aged exclusively in concrete and thus a long way from what many would consider the 'traditional' style of Rioja. I like the freshness and vibrancy allied at the same time to ripe, plush fruit spanning both the red and black spectrum. Tannins are supple and acids balanced and creamy, leading into a long, gently saline finish. Concentration and depth, as well as complexity overall, far exceed expectations in the category. Well made wine from an evidently superior vineyard, delicious now, or hold 3-4 years. Tasted January 2024.

91 points - Megha Jandhyala

This is a charming Rioja, a blend of garnacha, tempranillo, and a small amount of graciano. I like the bright, supple red fruit here and the pretty floral and savoury herbal notes. The palate is lively and supple, with fine-grained tannins and juicy acids. Fresh, streamlined, and with a sense of lightness that is appealing, this wine is ready to drink, though it can also be cellared for a couple of years. Tasted January 2024.

Press Reviews

Wine Enthusiast

90 Points - Michael Alberty

Floral jasmine and Daphne flower notes are mesmerizing, with aromas of blueberry fruit leather and orange peel joining the fun. While black cherries are the dominant fruit flavor, the wine's fig, nutmeg and bacon fat flavors are mouthwatering. Sturdy tannins with restrained acidity. 

Press Reviews

James Suckling

92 points

This is tasting beautifully now with strawberry, cedar, and hazelnut character. It’s medium-bodied with firm tannins that need to soften. But very pretty already. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years. Try after 2024.

Wine Enthusiast

90 points

Blue flower, underbrush and wild herb aromas mix with a whiff of tobacco. Racy and linear, the palate offers sour cherry, star anise and a hint of rusted iron alongside taut, close-grained tannins that leave a drying finish.

Wine Align

93 points - Michael Godel

Wildly aromatic of wild strawberry and sweet bitters liqueur. Highly glycerin and textural with grippy and elastic stretched tannins. A huge Neive Barbaresco with time definitely secure on its side. Drink 2022-2030. Tasted January 2020.

Press Reviews

Decanter

91 Points - Clive Pursehouse

A nicely made Pinot Noir that punches above its weight class—classical Oregon aromatics of brambleberry, cola and clove, along with just a hint of forest floor. The palate is fresh and vibrant with fresh raspberries, cranberry relish and notes of clove and cola to compliment the aromas.