Medium Bodied

Press Reviews

Wine Align

91 points - David Lawrason

This is a very pleasant, pretty and tidy pinot noir from Oregon - with nicely ripe cherry fruit inlaid with fine spicy, forest floor complexity. The nose is very appealing. It is mid-weight at most, nicely rounded and balanced with warmish alcohol and fine tannin. The fruit core and presence is impressive. The length is excellent. Tasted April 2023

90 points - Michael Godel

Mature fruit in this triple P, substantial and upwards of at least eight out of ten on the phenolic scale as it pertains to the Willamette Valley. Some verdancy yet the right kind of green, like spring vascular plants that reproduce via spores and have neither seeds nor flowers. These are scents of roots, stems and leaves, earthy, twiggy and savoury, all together making for a truly authentic varietal experience. Good mid-palate weight, high level acidity yet feeling a tad boozy and also peppery upon the finish. Plenty of attack, mostly in balance, rising then culminating at a cymbaleer sound and brassy profile. Maybe let it rest a year. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted April 2023.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

91 points - David Lawrason

This is an utterly charming, easy drinking and refined pinot. The hot 2018 vintage has layered in some ripeness with fine aromas of red cherry/raspberry compote, fine shrubby, foresty notes, and subtle oak spice. It is light to medium bodied, very smooth with fine tannin. The length is very good to excellent. Such poise and balance. Best now to 2023. Tasted June 2021.

90 points - Michael Godel

Nothing quite like a “normal” year to craft the most getable and crushable Bourgogne at the behest and passionate hands of Nicolas Potel. Old vines are in the 45 to 50 year range in highest of high density plantings harvested at a “normal” time in this post-modernist, climate adjusted period. That being the 5th to the 13th of September and fruit already ripe, burning the brix and phenol candle at both ends. Nose in to the promise of violets and roses, dive in for crunchy red fruit and some pretty solid tannins. That early yet necessary pick preserved acids with much to say in a pinot noir as tart and spirited as it is enriching of spirit. Despite the high drink-ability factor the structural parts creep up so wait a year for this to settle further. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted June 2021.

90 points - Sara d'Amato

Lovely, bright, crunchy and lively, this entry level Bourgogne from Roche de Bellene rarely disappoints. With a fine, elegant, and well-integrated oak treatment and an invitingly silky texture, this pinot noir is notably compelling and delivers solid value. Excellent length. Tasted June 2021.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

96 points - David Lawrason

This has a very intriguing, generous nose of macaroon (coconut), straw, dried apple, toast and almond/hazelnut. Also a lovely sense of sweet nut fudge. It is medium bodied with fulsome flavour, riveting acidity and all kinds of Champagne minerality. Great focus and length here. Wow! Tasted October 2020

93 points - John Szabo

Fresne Ducret's latest release of this premier cru "Chemin du Chemin champagne is a characteristically smoky and savoury, toasty and biscuity, mature champagne in the English style, balanced and savoury. I really like the developed, mature profile here, the great length. This is very good champagne ready to go. Tasted October 2020.

93 points - Michael Godel

When richness, yeasty and warm toasted brioche get together in Champagne the effect is comforting and potentially hypnotizing. From the Premier Cru village of Villedommange dating back to the mid 1800s, the pedigree is noted and the 48 months of lees aging a coup for creating both a creamy and a revitalizing Champagne. There is an oxidative aspect here and it's effectualness is one that imagines exotic spice cupboards, masala mixes and gingery tisanes. Quite the exotic bubble, lightly frothy, elegantly styled, complex and fine. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted October 2020.

Wine Enthusiast

94 points

This Champagne shows some fine maturity. A blend based on the 2014 vintage, it now has toastiness while keeping intense freshness. Acidity and touches of minerality come through the spiciness. Drink now.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

90 points - Michael Godel

Brouca’s pinot noir is called “Foulage Gaulois,” literally “Gallic Treading,” a reference to feet stomping grapes and history tells us the Gauls were big on the fermented stuff. Their interest goes back to the fourth century and the Romans were quite fond of their work. Fréderic’s carries a seriously carbonic varietal impact with high tonality, great freshness and a piney herbal character. Quite minty evergreen and open knit though really light within its bushy parameters. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023.

90 points - John Szabo, MS

A low intervention, 'natural' pinot, unfined and unfiltered from 25 year-old organically-farmed hillside vineyards in the south of France (Faugères region) with evident spicy-herbal whole bunch (stem) inclusion in the ferment. I like the dried herb and herbal tea, pot pourri and spiced cherry chutney flavours, the zesty acids, the firm and dusty but forgiving tannins. Length and depth are solid. A well-made, innovative take on pinot noir from a region that really shouldn't be growing pinot noir, managing to maintain freshness and composure against the odds. A cool, wet growing season surely helped the liveliness along. This is well worth a look, and it's totally free from deviations. Drink or hold short term. Tasted January 2023.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

93 points - John Szabo

2018 vintage review: Stéphane Riffault's 13.5 ha estate includes 3ha planted to pinot noir, of which La Noue represents 2.5 hectares across seven adjoining parcels with vines ranging from 8 to 56 years old, planted on both marls and Kimmeridgian limestones. Vineyard care is rigorous in the extreme (also certified organic), and the effort shows through in the final product, made in minimalist fashion. The 2018 is very much on the riper and fleshier end of the Sancerre Rouge spectrum, brimming with succulent red and black cherry (griottes), yet cool and classy, nicely composed, with fully integrated wood nuances. The palate is all class, vibrant yet fleshy, fresh yet generous, with a fine twang of limestone salinity and a tannin-acid complex that yields fine silk, more spun than woven. The wine gains succulence and energy with aeration, so be sure to serve in large-bowled pinot glasses or gently decant before serving, with a light chill for best effect. It should also hold comfortably in the cellar for another 3-5 years. Tasted May 2021.

Robert Parker

90+ points

2018 vintage review: From 30- to 58-year-old vines on terres blanches and marl soils, Stéphane Riffault's 2018 Sancerre La Noue was cold-macerated and fermented with whole clusters for a total of four weeks. It offers an aromatic, fruity, elegant and charming bouquet of red cherries, raspberries and redcurrant intertwined with stony notes. Concentrated, round and mellow on he palate, this is an elegant, already accessible and maybe too charming (?) Pinot with ripe black berry and licorice aromas on the aftertaste. It was aged for a total of 16 months in 228- to 600-liter oak casks prior the bottling in February. Tasted right after the bottling in February 2021.

I didn't taste wines from Stéphane Riffault for a long while, although I had them in very best memories. The 2016s and 2017s I tasted recently (far too late for potential buyers yet early enough for collectors who cellar them) are exciting. The 2017 Rosé is vinous and elegant, and among the whites, the clear, precise and linear 2016 Les Desmalets and the complex, structured 2016 Les Chailloux are outstanding. Shortly before the deadline for this report, I received the younger vintages—2018 and the fascinatingly vibrant and energetic 2019. These younger vintages include several new highlights, namely the single-parcel wines 468 and 538, which, tasted as barrel samples, are among the finest and most expressive Sancerres I have tasted in many years. The 2019 Les Chailloux is another highlight once again, as is the 2020 Rosé, which is more "a masquerade of a red wine," as Riffault's US importer, Jon-David Headrick, expresses it perfectly. All in all, the Domaine Claude Riffault has become one of my personal favorites of the AOP, and Stéphane's style seems to be moving toward more textured wines, a result of the trend to use more oak. Stéphane's brother is winemaker at the Domaine Étienne Sauzet in Puligny-Montrachet, and they might have an intense exchange about viticultural and winemaking techniques. I remember having tasted many wines grown predominantly or entirely in stainless steel years ago, and I also remember the transition to concrete vats and small barrels; these remain, but larger wooden casks are also in use today. For example, the generic white Sancerre is aged in both 500- and 600-liter wood containers; the Sancerres Les Boucauds is aged in a combination of pièces bourguignonnes (228 liters), 350-, 400- and 500-liter wood containers as well as 600-liter demi-muids. Les Chasseignes ages in both 350-liter barrels and a 20-hectolitre foudre that, in turn, is the cask for the fantastic Sancerres Les Denisottes and Les Chailloux. The Monoparcelles 469 and 538 are vinified in 350-liter barrels before the élevage of eight months takes place in a 20-hectoliter foudre and for another month in stainless steel tanks before bottling. The red Sancerre La Noue is aged in a combination of 228-, 250- and 600-liter oak vats, whereas the Sancerre Rosé is entirely aged in a single 228-liter pièce bourguignonne. 

With his rosé, Stéphane Riffault is looking to break the stereotype image of rosé and to produce a great, gastronomic vin de rosé, which he describes as "serious" and makes it "like a clear red." He accepts a loss of freshness in favor of complexity by aging it like a red Pinot Noir. In the end, this makes sense and adds another serious and vinous wine to a remarkable series of ambitious, terroir-driven Sancerres that are far more than just fresh and easy. I even had the impression the rosé is potent enough to be aged even longer on its lees, and Stéphane admits that he’s still unsure about this and that there is a possibility that he might age it longer than expected, but he’s afraid that what he would gain by aging it longer would be offset with an even further decrease in freshness. He added that bottling in March will give him a "happy medium," but this is yet to be seen. 

In an email conversation with Jon-David Headrick, who detected the Domaine Claude Riffault many years ago, he told me that Stéphane is not actively trying to make "wines that are counter to his appellation." Instead, "he’s trying to push the boundaries as to what can be made in the appellation. For so long, Sancerre has been known as an appellation that produced simple, fresh wines, and he wants it to be known as one of the great terroirs of France, having the ability to produce 'great white wines of stature and complexity.'" As such, Stéphane has been systematically tasting and speaking with great growers in Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace and Loire regions like Savennières to help him refine his style. "His primary references are in Burgundy where he has taken a lot of cues," reports Headrick. However, he is quick to point out that "Stéphane is not trying to make a Burgundy wine in Sancerre and dislikes this terminology. He is, however, taking the best of the ideas that great domaines in Burgundy have to teach him and adapting those to Sauvignon Blanc, his appellation and his parcels. " 

One of the ways Riffault thinks he can produce great, gastronomic whites is to concentrate on extended lees aging. In fact, the "sur-lie" aging is much longer than it was before since "he believes that aging on the lees, and more lees, in wooden containers is one of the ways to achieve this." 

One could fear the power, richness and density of the 2019 vintage could have made the new wines from Stéphane Riffault too big, but in fact, he has mastered the challenge incredibly well and kept as much freshness as possible in his full-bodied, structured and sustainable wines while practicing this extended aging. In any case, you should use a big Burgundy glass for all of his wines, particularly for the 2019s—and let them breath enough air. I have the series over a week, and even after seven days, they deeply impressed me.

Press Reviews

Wine Enthusiast

90 Points - Michael Alberty

Floral jasmine and Daphne flower notes are mesmerizing, with aromas of blueberry fruit leather and orange peel joining the fun. While black cherries are the dominant fruit flavor, the wine's fig, nutmeg and bacon fat flavors are mouthwatering. Sturdy tannins with restrained acidity. 

Press Reviews

WineAlign

93 Points - John Szabo, MS

Made from a blend of two premier crus vineyards, Les Hautes Jarrons and Les Peuillets, bottled unfined but lightly filtered after ageing in barrel of which 30% were new, this is a composed and complete wine, balanced, succulent and juicy on the palate, with a fine mix of red and darker fruit, but most of all evident energy and vitality. Tannins are ultra-fine in the Savigny idiom, and length and complexity are excellent. This is one of the sharper values in the Bellene estate portfolio, with a real stony-mineral character, still 2-4 years away from prime, or hold into the early-mid '30s.

Press Reviews

Robert Parker

93+ Points

The 2021 Vino de Viñedo Los Parientes Pinot Noir was produced with some 10% full clusters and indigenous yeasts followed by nine months in barrel, 13% of them new 300-liter oak barrels and the rest used 228-liter ones. It has 13.5% alcohol and is direct, aromatic, with red fruit and notes of rosehip. The colour and the nose keep the youth and primary aromas but with good ripeness and development of flavours; there's nothing herbal or green about it. 13,416 bottles were filled in December 2021.

James Suckling

93 Points

There is a melted chocolate-crust character that binds well with the wild strawberries, plums, roses, wild herbs, white pepper and stemmy accents. This is bright and muscular, charged with seamless tannins. Very unique and powerful pinot, but juicy and caressing, too. Drink after 2024.

Vinous

93 Points - Joaquín Hidalgo

The 2021 Pinot Noir Vino de Viñedo Los Parientes from Malleco, Traiguén, was aged for 9 months in 13% new barrels. Intense purple in the glass. The clear, full, alluring aromas include sweetbriar, red fruit, sour cherry, elderberry and hints of earth and mushrooms. Fluid with a terse texture, fine-grained tannins that keep things compact, and a little grip; the base is formed by the elegant freshness before the lengthy finish and elderberry aftertaste. A pure, delicate wine.