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Press Reviews

Wine Anorak

94 points - Jamie Goode

Powerful, lively and spicy with concentrated tangy citrus and pear fruit with some saline notes and tangy apple and lemon on the finish. Lovely intensity here with some crystalline citrus fruit.

Wine Align

93 points - David Lawrason

This is not your everyday chardonnay! In the Jura region of east-central France in the lower foothills of the Alps, there is tradition of oxidative winemaking, some under a layer of flor, as occurs in some Spanish sherry. As a result of the advance maturation this pours medium gold. The nose is dominated by classic hazelnut, honey, barley sugar sourdough and anise, around the ripe tropical fruit. It is medium weight, very smooth, well balanced and focused, with excellent length. More lithe lemon notes enliven the finish. There is a touch of tannin. Tasted December 2022.

91 points - John Szabo, MS

A pure chardonnay made in the traditional, oxidative Jura style under flor, not unlike fino sherry, but here the oxidation is more pronounced. Expect bruised apple and cold Orange Pekoe tea, cold wheat toast with honey, lemon pith and zest, and much more in an unusual but complex expression. The palate is mid-weight, showing more fruit and less oxidative qualities than the nose, succulent acids, and good to very good length. I must say, I like the salinity and savoury aspects, the lingering flavours and authentic but unimpeachable winemaking. There's fantasy here; be sure to decant before serving; best now-2026. Tasted December 2022.

91 points - Michael Godel

Clémentine Baud took over the family estate with her brother six years ago. The first father to daughter transition and with many to follow. The estate dates back to 1742, started by Jean-François. They farm 25 hectares, Clémentine’s father started with five and grew to 19 hectares when he retired. Picking for Sparkling now seems to happen in August, save for the difficult 2021 vintage. In 2017 70 per cent of the harvest was lost to the frosts, 50 in 2019 and 80 in 2021. "We have over 40 old varieties in the Jura, important for diversity, including those not allowed under the rules of the AOC," tells Clém. The fruit for Cuvée Flor is grown at a latitude of 46.73 North and though very much a cool climate place for chardonnay the threats of warmer winters and seasonal frosts has wreaked havoc over the past 10 years. A chardonnay of remarkable lustre, concentration and purity, worked by way of oxidative aging, low alcohol expectation starting at 12 and finishing no higher than 14 to 14.5. A floral chardonnay, not one related to yeast and surely a pretty in Jura wine. From the younger vines, phenolic and hinting towards though remaining clear of emerging boozy. Filled with flavour, hazelnut and praline, peach and yellow plum. A world of its own. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted July 2022.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

91 points (2020) - Michael Godel

In Catalunya and other parts of Spain’s north-central appellations there has been a decade-long investigation into grenache raised in amphora with Bodegas Puiggròs making some of the cleanest of the bunch. This family’s work dates back nearly 180 years though in bottling just more than a dozen. Their Catalonian garnatxa blanca grown at 600m on limestone and clay sees time in 800L clay amphora. The freshness and oily texture combine for honest to goodness pleasure with lemon, orange, lime and dried herbs all in the mix. Almost lemongrass and kefir but certainly some notes of exoticism within. Good energy here and worth a look, finishing with tell-tale tisane and tonic. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted September 2022.

91 points (2020) - John Szabo, MS

Amphora-aged garnacha blanca from Catalonia, Puiggros's 2020 Exedra is a fine follow up to the excellent 2019, clean, fresher than most in the clay pot-aged genre. I like the gentle white-fleshed orchard fruit flavours, the lemon curd and cream, the fullish, well-rounded palate, the impressive length. It's not easy to render this style so cleanly and precisely, but Puiggros does it so well. I'd consider ageing it another year or two for full complexity, though it's also admittedly delicious now. Tasted September 2022.

89 points (2020) - David Lawrason

This is 100% grenache blanc - the favoured white grape of northeast Spain. It shows bright fairly deep lemon colour. The nose is generous but gentle with ripe yellow melon/pear fruit, acacia florality, a hint of anise and spice. It is medium-full bodied, just off-dry and sour-edged with a hint of acetic, which lowers my rating below 90. Still, it is enjoyable, quite plush, open knit and intensely flavoured with excellent length. Tasted Sept 2022

Press Reviews

Wine Align

92 points - David Lawrason

From high altitude volcanic-soiled vineyards in the Canary Islands this is from the local listan grape, also known as palomino fina, related to the white grape grown in Jerez to make sherry. It is light to medium bodied, fresh and lively with trace minerality. Not tart acidity but enough to keep it in ballast. The fruit is pear, guava, lemon amid the reductive mineral notes, plus a distinct sourdough yeastiness on the nose that immediately recalled fino sherry. The length is excellent. Tasted December 2022.

91 points - Michael Godel

Viñátigo Listán Blanco 2021 initially emits this unusually funky and exotic perfume of wet basalt or concrete mixed with washed manchego cheese rind but quickly comes together as one inviting scent. Preps the palate for wanting a taste to see what comes next and the clarity shines right away, of gemstones and the salty sweat of craggy wet stones. There is some orchard fruit but what matters most is the saline-mineral comport. It's like a compôte of imagination built on fruit and volcanics melted into a salad that spoons straight on down. Bloody delicious and well-made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted December 2022.

91 points - John Szabo, MS

2021 marks another fine vintage for this reliably intriguing and interesting, complex wine from own-rooted listán blanco (aka palomino fino), quite ripe, showing pineapple and quince, baked apple and apple blossom flavours, less immediately flinty-reductive than the previous vintage and with more fruit. The palate is mid-weight and creamy, with balanced acids and very good length. Really delicious now, though should continue to gain in non-fruit complexity over the next 1-3 years, or hold into the mid-'20s. Tasted December 2022.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

92 points - Michael Godel

Juicy and extremely forthright for grüner veltliner with aromatic volume, a push of buzz, kinetic energy and acidity, finishing on a string with strong mocker flavours. Nothing subtle or understated here but more so a signature Austrian white that states its business, claims its territory and delivers waves of toothsome varietal style. Stands up to be noticed, and counted! Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2024.

91 points - David Lawrason

This is quite stylish, leaner and elegant - not as forward as many. There is also a more leesy note, with less obvious fruit. The honeyed, bready and peach notes remind me of pinot gris. It is light to medium bodied, quite firm, linear and very long on the finish. Some minerality here. Tasted October 2024

91 points - John Szabo, MS

Demeter-certified biodynamic, open and lively, energetic and vibrant, this is indeed one of the more lively grüner veltliners from the '23 vintage that I've tasted so far, also clean but with lees flavour lingering, supressing the exuberant citrus fruit. I love the balanced-crunchy acids and the high intensity and density flavours. Long, open and honest finish. Well done I have to say, ready to enjoy, but no rush. Tasted October 2024.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

91 points - David Lawrason

Saint Bris is a rare sauvignon blanc appellation in northern Burgundy, pres de Chablis, which is not all that far as the crow flies from Sancerre. And I definitely get that tight, firm if less mineral character here. Expect generous aromas and flavours of juniper, grapefruit, pine needle and gooseberry/guava. It is medium weight, firm and dry, with some bitterness. The length is excellent. Always fun to present it this blind to sauvignon blanc fans. Tasted January 2024

Value Rating:  5 Stars

90 points - John Szabo, MS

This is an uncommonly ripe and fruity sauvignon blanc from Saint Bris in Burgundy, round and creamy, quite full bodied despite just 12.5% alcohol declared, with ripe orchard and pineapple fruit leading. Acids are creamy yet still fresh, and length and depth are very good. And while I'd love a little more complexity at the price, or at least would have expected, the current international yardstick of inexorably increasing prices secures this wine a spot in a favourable quality/cost zone. At peak now I'd say to capture the fruit. Tasted January 2024.

90 points - Megha Jandhyala

Saint Bris is an appellation in Bourgogne that, unusually, is centred around sauvignon blanc. This is a lovely example, showing poise and grace but also inviting and expressive flavours of peaches, apricots, grapefruit, and a hint of passion fruit. The palate is medium bodied and fleshy, with juicy acids. The length is very good, with a refreshing citrusy finish. I would drink this over the next year or two. Tasted January 2024.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

91 points (2022) - David Lawrason

This shows the vivid yellow colour I expect from good Soave. It also shows the complex, detailed nose honeysuckle, lemon blossom, camomile and almost tropical peach/mango fruit. It is mid-weight, rich and viscous yet shows some enlivening freshness, spritz and tenderness at the same time. Slightly bitter and lemony on the finish. The length is excellent. Tasted January 2023.

90 points (2022) - Michael Godel

The latest volcanically driven garganega from the Tessari family is a child of a promising vintage full of sun, fun and support. The sky is the limit for just how well this will drink and please. It is in fact bottled salty and fruit crunchy deliciousness and why shouldn’t it be? Made simply with tradition in mind, basalt in pocket and all the modern facility made available. Citrus and nectarine, basil and Maldon salt. Lime all over the finish. Spot on. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023.

4 Stars (2022)- Sara d'Amato

Nervy and salty with a dash of elderflower and pear, this stylish Soave Classico is a favourite of restauranteurs. Richly textured with notes of apple and lemon zest, salt and lime. Quite chalky and dry, with a pleasant degree of roundness despite the moderate level of alcohol. Nicely balanced with a pleasant finish of good length. Drink now. Tasted January 2023.

Press Reviews

92 points (2020) - David Lawrason

This is from a leading Saumur producer of Loire chenin blanc with vines planted in calcerous clay soils near the Loire River outside of classical town. It is both rich and delicate, a juxtaposition I find in some of the world's best whites. It is not however an intense, flashy, acid and mineral driven chenin. Fermentation in neutral barrels has created a pale gold hue and softened the nose to gentle honeyed, spicy state along with ripe pear/apricot jam fruit. It is medium-full bodied, smooth and dry, almost creamy, with the grape's acidity and minerality arriving more on the finish. The complexity and length are excellent, with a touch of wood spice and bitterness as well. Tasted August 2022

Wine Align

93 points (2020) - Sara d'Amato

A captivating chenin blanc from Saumur, famed for its calcareous "tuffeau" soils, among others, on which chenin blanc can reach showstopping heights. The aromatics are dizzying here with spring blossom, honeysuckle, ginger and lemongrass hitting the nose with staggered entry. The texture is equally alluring with a juxtaposition of mineral, freshness and viscosity resulting in a dynamic interplay. Expressive with memorable length. Tasted August 2022.

93 points - Michael Godel

2019: The rare and elusive 100 per cent chenin blanc from Samur makes full use of clay-calcaire-tuffeau soils for this dry and piqued white wine. So crunchy and expressive with an expansive character that fills the mouth by making contact withy every nerve and pour. Benchmark and controlled explosive example, rare or otherwise. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted March 2020.

91 points - David Lawrason

2019: It is rare to come across fine Saumur chenin, a central Loire Valley appellation overshadowed by Vouvray. This is mid-weight, dry and quite firm classic with a fairly generous nose of pear, spice, vague fresh herbs and wet stone. It becomes quite dry and somewhat grapefruity bitter on the finish, trailing solid minerality as well. Very good to excellent length. Tasted March 2020.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

92 points (2020) - Michael Godel

Comtesse Madeleine may not be a Rhône original out of the Lirac appellation but my if it does not strike as something profound. The blend is 40 per cent each marsanne and clairette with (10) grenache blanc (plus perhaps a splash of picpoul) for a devilishly flinty white with a veritable scent of animal musk, like porchetta releasing that tell-tale aroma just after the skin begins to render at heat. This is the real deal in French white wine for which the blending process and subsequent elévage can pull out meaning to change the way wine will speak to those that are listening. Intently in this case and for great reason. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023.

92 points (2020) - Sarah d'Amato

A lively and characterful blend of marsanne, clairette and grenache blanc. Expressive and concise with freshness created through a combination of acidity and minerality. Features notes of rosebud, honeysuckle and ginger spice along with thyme, pear, lanolin, fresh fig and lemon. A compelling assemblage that brings new dimension and complexity through a succession of undulating sensorial waves. Honestly made with a light-handed touch. Balanced and lengthy. Tasted February 2023.

91 points (2020) - Megha Jandhyala

This is an aromatically expressive blend of clairette, grenache blanc, marsanne, and picpoul, from Lirac, an appellation that lies just across the Rhône river from famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I really like its glossy, smooth texture and flavours of apricots, lemons, and grapefruits, alongside subtle notes of vanilla and wet stones. The palate is integrated and balanced, with a sense of both richness and freshness. The finish is graceful and long-lasting. Tasted February 2023 by Critic Understudy Megha Jandhyala.

Decanter

90 points (2020)

Distinctly nutty from the oak, macadamia, gently grilled elements to the fruit. Good acidity. Little touch of honeycomb on the finish. Acidity is balanced. Drinking window 2020 - 2022.