Vegan-Friendly

Press Reviews

Wine Align

92 points - David Lawrason

This is from a leading Saumur producer of Loire chenin blanc with vines planted in calcerous clay soils near the Loire River outside of classical town. It is both rich and delicate, a juxtaposition I find in some of the world's best whites. It is not however an intense, flashy, acid and mineral driven chenin. Fermentation in neutral barrels has created a pale gold hue and softened the nose to gentle honeyed, spicy state along with ripe pear/apricot jam fruit. It is medium-full bodied, smooth and dry, almost creamy, with the grape's acidity and minerality arriving more on the finish. The complexity and length are excellent, with a touch of wood spice and bitterness as well. Tasted August 2022

94 points - John Szabo

2019: This leads with a terrific nose very much in the varietal/regional idiom, honeyed, floral, apple and lemon zest-scented, complex and exotic, not to mention stony. The palate displays a similar level of poise and composure, cool, transparent yet with a heavy freight of flavour , and terrific length. This is really quite extraordinary wine, delicious now, but surely capable of a decade or so in the cellar. Top notch. Tasted March 2019.

93 points - Michael Godel

2019: The rare and elusive 100 per cent chenin blanc from Samur makes full use of clay-calcaire-tuffeau soils for this dry and piqued white wine. So crunchy and expressive with an expansive character that fills the mouth by making contact withy every nerve and pour. Benchmark and controlled explosive example, rare or otherwise. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted March 2020.

91 points - David Lawrason

2019: It is rare to come across fine Saumur chenin, a central Loire Valley appellation overshadowed by Vouvray. This is mid-weight, dry and quite firm classic with a fairly generous nose of pear, spice, vague fresh herbs and wet stone. It becomes quite dry and somewhat grapefruity bitter on the finish, trailing solid minerality as well. Very good to excellent length. Tasted March 2020.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

93 points - Megha Jandhyala

This is a concentrated, complex, gracefully balanced cabernet franc. Notes of ripe red plums, blackberries, dark cherries, tobacco, dried leaves, and violets are interwoven here to form an elegant, engaging, and varietally representative flavour profile. The palate is densely flavoured but lithe, with fine-grained tannins and refreshing acids. The finish is long, layered, and captivating. Though it can be enjoyed now, I would cellar this for 2-3 years. Tasted January 2024.

93 points - David Lawrason

This is a serious cab franc indeed - not so much in terms of weight and power, but in its complexity, poise and length. It’s a deeply coloured for franc. The nose shows fine, ripe raspberry, perfectly pitched by fresh herbs, tobacco and violet. It is loosely structured mid-palate, and a touch warm, with slightly green tannin. The length is excellent. I would age it a year or three. Tasted January 2024

92 points - John Szabo, MS

Silky and refined, elegant but dense, this Saumur Champigny (cabernet franc) is a substantial and serious wine, with a high degree of textbook regional character, complete with a touch of green-herbal, varietal flavour. Tannins are fine and dusty, acids gently salty, and length good to very good. I'd suggest another year or two in the cellar to further refine the texture and develop complexity - potential I think is high. Tasted January 2024.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

93 points - John Szabo

2018 vintage review: Stéphane Riffault's 13.5 ha estate includes 3ha planted to pinot noir, of which La Noue represents 2.5 hectares across seven adjoining parcels with vines ranging from 8 to 56 years old, planted on both marls and Kimmeridgian limestones. Vineyard care is rigorous in the extreme (also certified organic), and the effort shows through in the final product, made in minimalist fashion. The 2018 is very much on the riper and fleshier end of the Sancerre Rouge spectrum, brimming with succulent red and black cherry (griottes), yet cool and classy, nicely composed, with fully integrated wood nuances. The palate is all class, vibrant yet fleshy, fresh yet generous, with a fine twang of limestone salinity and a tannin-acid complex that yields fine silk, more spun than woven. The wine gains succulence and energy with aeration, so be sure to serve in large-bowled pinot glasses or gently decant before serving, with a light chill for best effect. It should also hold comfortably in the cellar for another 3-5 years. Tasted May 2021.

Robert Parker

90+ points

2018 vintage review: From 30- to 58-year-old vines on terres blanches and marl soils, Stéphane Riffault's 2018 Sancerre La Noue was cold-macerated and fermented with whole clusters for a total of four weeks. It offers an aromatic, fruity, elegant and charming bouquet of red cherries, raspberries and redcurrant intertwined with stony notes. Concentrated, round and mellow on he palate, this is an elegant, already accessible and maybe too charming (?) Pinot with ripe black berry and licorice aromas on the aftertaste. It was aged for a total of 16 months in 228- to 600-liter oak casks prior the bottling in February. Tasted right after the bottling in February 2021.

I didn't taste wines from Stéphane Riffault for a long while, although I had them in very best memories. The 2016s and 2017s I tasted recently (far too late for potential buyers yet early enough for collectors who cellar them) are exciting. The 2017 Rosé is vinous and elegant, and among the whites, the clear, precise and linear 2016 Les Desmalets and the complex, structured 2016 Les Chailloux are outstanding. Shortly before the deadline for this report, I received the younger vintages—2018 and the fascinatingly vibrant and energetic 2019. These younger vintages include several new highlights, namely the single-parcel wines 468 and 538, which, tasted as barrel samples, are among the finest and most expressive Sancerres I have tasted in many years. The 2019 Les Chailloux is another highlight once again, as is the 2020 Rosé, which is more "a masquerade of a red wine," as Riffault's US importer, Jon-David Headrick, expresses it perfectly. All in all, the Domaine Claude Riffault has become one of my personal favorites of the AOP, and Stéphane's style seems to be moving toward more textured wines, a result of the trend to use more oak. Stéphane's brother is winemaker at the Domaine Étienne Sauzet in Puligny-Montrachet, and they might have an intense exchange about viticultural and winemaking techniques. I remember having tasted many wines grown predominantly or entirely in stainless steel years ago, and I also remember the transition to concrete vats and small barrels; these remain, but larger wooden casks are also in use today. For example, the generic white Sancerre is aged in both 500- and 600-liter wood containers; the Sancerres Les Boucauds is aged in a combination of pièces bourguignonnes (228 liters), 350-, 400- and 500-liter wood containers as well as 600-liter demi-muids. Les Chasseignes ages in both 350-liter barrels and a 20-hectolitre foudre that, in turn, is the cask for the fantastic Sancerres Les Denisottes and Les Chailloux. The Monoparcelles 469 and 538 are vinified in 350-liter barrels before the élevage of eight months takes place in a 20-hectoliter foudre and for another month in stainless steel tanks before bottling. The red Sancerre La Noue is aged in a combination of 228-, 250- and 600-liter oak vats, whereas the Sancerre Rosé is entirely aged in a single 228-liter pièce bourguignonne. 

With his rosé, Stéphane Riffault is looking to break the stereotype image of rosé and to produce a great, gastronomic vin de rosé, which he describes as "serious" and makes it "like a clear red." He accepts a loss of freshness in favor of complexity by aging it like a red Pinot Noir. In the end, this makes sense and adds another serious and vinous wine to a remarkable series of ambitious, terroir-driven Sancerres that are far more than just fresh and easy. I even had the impression the rosé is potent enough to be aged even longer on its lees, and Stéphane admits that he’s still unsure about this and that there is a possibility that he might age it longer than expected, but he’s afraid that what he would gain by aging it longer would be offset with an even further decrease in freshness. He added that bottling in March will give him a "happy medium," but this is yet to be seen. 

In an email conversation with Jon-David Headrick, who detected the Domaine Claude Riffault many years ago, he told me that Stéphane is not actively trying to make "wines that are counter to his appellation." Instead, "he’s trying to push the boundaries as to what can be made in the appellation. For so long, Sancerre has been known as an appellation that produced simple, fresh wines, and he wants it to be known as one of the great terroirs of France, having the ability to produce 'great white wines of stature and complexity.'" As such, Stéphane has been systematically tasting and speaking with great growers in Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace and Loire regions like Savennières to help him refine his style. "His primary references are in Burgundy where he has taken a lot of cues," reports Headrick. However, he is quick to point out that "Stéphane is not trying to make a Burgundy wine in Sancerre and dislikes this terminology. He is, however, taking the best of the ideas that great domaines in Burgundy have to teach him and adapting those to Sauvignon Blanc, his appellation and his parcels. " 

One of the ways Riffault thinks he can produce great, gastronomic whites is to concentrate on extended lees aging. In fact, the "sur-lie" aging is much longer than it was before since "he believes that aging on the lees, and more lees, in wooden containers is one of the ways to achieve this." 

One could fear the power, richness and density of the 2019 vintage could have made the new wines from Stéphane Riffault too big, but in fact, he has mastered the challenge incredibly well and kept as much freshness as possible in his full-bodied, structured and sustainable wines while practicing this extended aging. In any case, you should use a big Burgundy glass for all of his wines, particularly for the 2019s—and let them breath enough air. I have the series over a week, and even after seven days, they deeply impressed me.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

91 points - Michael Godel

As for Louis Moreau well here he goes again raising the profile of a Chablis, this time with the Petit, of appellation and nothing to do with size. Meaning this is a hefty example of aromatic rise and also mouthfeel but with more than a pit stop or two at layers of salinity. You can seriously feel the chalky soil and even more so the fossil content in what is nearly briny chardonnay. How anyone could miss the soil in this Petit-Chablis would be beyond comprehension because fruit is nothing without the soul of this terroir. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023.

90 points - Megha Jandhyala

This is a clean, uncluttered, focussed petit chablis with distinct notes of lemons, grapefruit, crunchy apples, and wet stones. Acidity is vibrant and the palate is predominantly citrusy, with a hint of salinity. The finish is long, infused with refreshing flavours of grapefruits and citrus zest. Given its citrus-driven flavour profile, this wine should pair well with all sorts of mildly seasoned seafood, including lightly poached white fish. Tasted February 2023.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

91 points - Megha Jandhyala

This is a vegan-friendly, sustainably made treixadura from the Ribeiro region of northwestern Spain. I like its clean and uncluttered flavour profile, with notes of ripe apples, pears, oranges, and grapefruits. There is pleasantly honeyed note here as well. The palate is dry, fleshy, and rounded, with some spritz from dissolved carbon dioxide and crunchy, lively acids. Length is very good, with a grapefruit-infused finish. I like the focus and purity of fruit here. Ready to drink. Tasted February 2023 by Critic Understudy Megha Jandhyala.

90 points - Sarah d'Amato

A lovely teixadura born of young vines, so pure, refreshing, lively and upbeat. Features a delicate but complex aromatic profile that includes notes of honeysuckle, elderflower licorice, white pepper and white grapefruit. Prepare for a salty, lip-smacking finish of great length. Tasted February 2023.

90 points - Michael Godel

Varietal treixadura from Coto De Gomariz in repeat of that 2020 beeswax and honey yet also mineral, elemental, saline and savoury. Less in terms of bitters and more so fleshy this time around. Like mandarin segments and persimmon though dry as the Ribeiro desert. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023.

Press Reviews

Robert Parker

90 points

The fruit-driven 2020 The Flower And The Bee Sousón has nicely integrated oak and is pleasantly spicy and smoky with notes of ripe berries and some gritty tannins. These reds need food and/or time. 15,000 bottles produced. 

Coto de Gomariz is the biggest exporter of Ribeiro wines. They are a family winery with 32 hectares of vineyards, eight of them planted to red varieties, all farmed organically and following the principles of Fukuoka and Steinner, but not certified. They produce 90,000 bottles.

Press Reviews

Wine Align

90 points - Michael Godel

If 2017 was found to exist in the ripe and rich realm for Alsatian sylvaner then wait to you get a taste of what 2018 brings to the varietal table. Also crunchy and finely embittered with a sense of lemons having spent time soaking up neutral spirits. Not your old uncle Sylvain’s sylvaner, no sir, this one’s set up to host the new millennials. An alternative varietal take that will rock the avocado off your toast. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted October 2020.

90 points - David Lawrason

This is a ripe version of sylvaner from a warmer year, with peach fruit, some waxy/oiliness and light caraway and spice. It is medium-full bodied, nicely rich yet firm and dry, with some sense of spritz. There is some pithy bitterness on the finish. The length is very good to excellent. Tasted October 2020

90 points - John Szabo, MS

Clearly ripe, full of fleshy white-fleshed apple fruit and spiced apple chutney, with a vaguely sweet taste, concentrated and generous to be sure. I like the density of flavour and evident intensity, while acids remain firm but ripe and length and depth are excellent. A superior example to be sure, more generous than the mean. Ready to enjoy or hold short term. Tasted October 2020.

90 points - Sara d'Amato

There is a notable elegance to this fresh but fulfilling sylvaner a characteristic tendency of this French/Germanic grape variety. Apple and pear with more apparent sweetness than the previous vintage due to level of ripeness. Highly drinkable, very well defined and a real classic. Tasted October 2020.

Press Reviews

WineAlign

92 points - Michael Godel

A specialist in clay-pot aged garnatxa and this bottling being a red that is only partially aged in amphora. Same limestone and clay soil grown garnatxa at 500m with a view to the mountains of Montserrat, in the outskirts of the village of Odena. As with all these wines there is a clarity and freshness to bely the methodology while here the florally-charged aromas are nothing if not beautiful. Like candied perfume, sweetly scented, inviting and gregarious. Generous too, openly so but also a thing of being so obviously natural. Hard to decide between the full on amphora white or this partially aged red. Both, is the answer. Drink 2023-2027. 

Tasted February 2023 - 2020 vintage

90 points - Megha Jandhyala

There is a guileless charm to this fresh and fruity grenache. It was made with fruit sourced from vines planted at 500 meters above sea level in the outskirts of Odena in Catalunya and fermented in either clay amphorae or large concrete tanks. I like the cheerful flavours of juicy red fruit, accompanied by subtle notes of earth and resinous herbs, and pretty aromas of violets. The palate is medium-bodied, warm, and comforting, with fine tannins and juicy, fresh acids. The finish is long and fruity.

Tasted February 2023 - 2020 vintage

90 points - John Szabo, MS

A clay amphora-aged garnacha from Catalunya, high ripeness is evidenced by the sweet, red currant and cherry jam flavours alongside 14.5% alcohol declared. Yet the palate remains firm and fresh, juicy even, thanks to the zesty acids. Tannins are light and fine, and length and depth are good. I'd let this settle for another year or two to further the quest for complexity. 

Tasted January 2024 - 2021 vintage

Press Reviews

Wine Align

92 points - David Lawrason

From high altitude volcanic-soiled vineyards in the Canary Islands this is from the local listan grape, also known as palomino fina, related to the white grape grown in Jerez to make sherry. It is light to medium bodied, fresh and lively with trace minerality. Not tart acidity but enough to keep it in ballast. The fruit is pear, guava, lemon amid the reductive mineral notes, plus a distinct sourdough yeastiness on the nose that immediately recalled fino sherry. The length is excellent. Tasted December 2022.

91 points - Michael Godel

Viñátigo Listán Blanco 2021 initially emits this unusually funky and exotic perfume of wet basalt or concrete mixed with washed manchego cheese rind but quickly comes together as one inviting scent. Preps the palate for wanting a taste to see what comes next and the clarity shines right away, of gemstones and the salty sweat of craggy wet stones. There is some orchard fruit but what matters most is the saline-mineral comport. It's like a compôte of imagination built on fruit and volcanics melted into a salad that spoons straight on down. Bloody delicious and well-made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted December 2022.

91 points - John Szabo, MS

2021 marks another fine vintage for this reliably intriguing and interesting, complex wine from own-rooted listán blanco (aka palomino fino), quite ripe, showing pineapple and quince, baked apple and apple blossom flavours, less immediately flinty-reductive than the previous vintage and with more fruit. The palate is mid-weight and creamy, with balanced acids and very good length. Really delicious now, though should continue to gain in non-fruit complexity over the next 1-3 years, or hold into the mid-'20s. Tasted December 2022.

Press Reviews

James Suckling

92 points

This is tasting beautifully now with strawberry, cedar, and hazelnut character. It’s medium-bodied with firm tannins that need to soften. But very pretty already. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years. Try after 2024.

Wine Enthusiast

90 points

Blue flower, underbrush and wild herb aromas mix with a whiff of tobacco. Racy and linear, the palate offers sour cherry, star anise and a hint of rusted iron alongside taut, close-grained tannins that leave a drying finish.

Wine Align

93 points - Michael Godel

Wildly aromatic of wild strawberry and sweet bitters liqueur. Highly glycerin and textural with grippy and elastic stretched tannins. A huge Neive Barbaresco with time definitely secure on its side. Drink 2022-2030. Tasted January 2020.